//WL2K Back in Bahia de Caraquez

This is a simple test to find out if we can update the blog from the ham radio. Yes we are back in Bahia, getting ready to sail back up to Mexico to haul the boat and repaint. We will be leaving in a week and it should be a good passage, moderate winds, no storms, smooth seas.

Ecuador, We Are There

The trip to Ecuador took ten days largely because of stormy weather with contrary winds. The first day out, Saturday, we had Southerly winds at 20 30 knots, so we settled for just heading west, seeking deeper water and smoother seas. The seas were very rough, and I was tossed across the cockpit to land on the mainsheet traverler giving me a large and painful bruise across my back. An inauspicious beginning to a long trip. The next couple of days brought light variable winds with little southerly progress.Tuesday brought westerly winds allowing us to head south at last. With 6-8 knot winds we were making 5 or 6 in the desired direction. A lot of rain squalls everywhere, making us slow down and shorten sail just in case the winds got blustery. The winds died off at night forcing us to just drift and wait for the wind to fill in in the morning. This pattern held until we got to Isla de Coco, where the rain diminished somewhat and the wind got steadier. We were making 8 or 9 knots on a good course for the whole day. We discovered that the seal on the port ama was not doing its job and the ama was filling with water when we pressed the boat for speed. I emptied it with a bucket a couple of times and made a new gasket from a floor mat. Great improvement, but we still could not get the electric bilge pump to perform, and had to keep a close eye on it. The days of torrential rain has revealed some unforeseen leaks and lots of we stuff was showing up in the boat. Sailing fast also revealed some leaks with salt water, which is much more difficult to clean up. We were now making 150 plus miles per day and starting to plan our arrival in Bahia Caraquez.
Entering the bay involves negotiating a large beach are where the Rio Chone enters the pacific. A pilot or guide is required for entry by the port captain. They only enter at high tide which happened to be at about 4:30 pm, perhaps the windiest time of the day. The wind drives the seas making this the biggest waves available. We barely got there in time to come in, and another cruiser heard us calling on the radio and helped arrange the pilot. We thought he was going for a swim when he jumped from the panga onto hot sauce. He directed us through the surf toward the beach and immediately we were surfing at about 15 knots. Pedro the pilot had never surfed before. As we weaved our path towards the bay, another big breaking wave loomed up behind and he hopped up and moved as far forward as possible to avoid the impending flood. Cowabunga, off we go again. At least enough excitement as we needed at the time. We got anchored in the bay by the club and went in for dinner.
The next few days were occupied with going to the doctor for Monteszumas revenge and looking for a dentist to do a root canal. Got to the dentist today and got the root part done. The yacht club shuffled boats today and put us on a mooring. I go back to the dentist Fri. To finish up, then off to the interior.

Off We Go, Southbound at Last

Rough week, but a good end. Marvelous Marvin the mechanic was too sick to come work on the boat for several days, but showed up on Wednesday with the rebuilt  injection pump his toolbox. A couple of hours later we fire up the engine and it sounds completely different than I have ever heard it. Instead of the clattery thumpety sound of a small truck, it sounds like a sewing machine singing along. I have probably never heard it when it was running properly before. Perhaps this will all work out after all. I am sure I saved about a million dollars by having it done here instead stateside.
When we got back from Guatemala, I noticed a toothache and went to see a local dentist. He spoke english about like my spanish, so we gave each other lessons. As luck would have it, the toothache turned out to be an abscess which will require a root canal. He drills it out and  drains it, but the root canal is out of the question until I have a few weeks to do it right. I return to the boat to see about the next challenge. The pain does not go away as advertised, but by Sunday I have developed tourista and am too distracted to worry about the tooth. A couple more days of lying about holding my guts in all day and running to the head all night leave me completely exhausted, dehydrated, and sleep deprived. On Wednesday I felt like I could cope with a return to the dentist, so I called him and he said come right in. When I went to the office to tell Joan about the dentist, Marvin was back, so he and Joan set off to fix the boat and I headed for the dentist. I gave up on the collectivo and got a local taxi driver to agree to take me to town, wait for me and bring me back for about $16. He got pretty lost in town and had no map reading skills, so the map on my tablet could have been hieroglyphs to him. I finally coaxed him to the address and he sat on the sidewalk in front of the dentists office while I went in and had the abscess drained again. He must have missed a spot the first pass, because relief was instantaneous this time. He gave me antibiotics to take at sea just to be sure. The driver stopped at the pharmacy, and an ATM on the way back and it was pretty deluxe having all my errands dispatched without standing on a corner waiting for a bus.
Upon return to the boat, Marvin is about done and I am soon rewarded by the happy purr of the engine.
Things look a lot better this evening than they had looked in the morning. My stomach was settling down, the boat was running, my toothache was gone, and life looked a lot more positive now. Next morning I scheduled the formal checkout from Mexico for Saturday morning. We have done all but the final inspection by the military which is supposed to occur at 07:00 tomorrow. We're thrashing all about getting the tanks full, papers in order and generally getting ready to go. After the inspection, we set sail for Ecuador. It is 1100 miles as the crow flies, but we have no idea how long it takes as there is just too much unknown about the weather. If we have good wind from a favorable direction, we could show up in 4 days. Owing to the fact that we have never experienced that kind of wind and we will have to cross the inter tropical convergence zone, a more reasonable estimate is a week or two. The ITCZ is the area where the northern trades meet the southern trades and duke it out for some prize or something. The general effect is a band of high precipitation and variable winds which wanders around west of Costa Rica and Panama. With luck it will move north as we move south and we will just enter the southern trades for some excellent sailing in consistent 15 to 20 knots winds. Another scenario might  be drifting in light air dodging squalls for a few days before we pick up the trades. It looks like we should be good to go tomorrow and the rest will just have to play out as it will. Next post should come from another hemisphere.

Guats up

Took a couple of weeks off from dying in the heat to travel in the highlands of Guatemala. We started out with a collectivo(minivan) to the highway turnoff for Ciudad Hidalgo. We caught another collectivo and went 40 km. in about an hour and a half to the border. When we tried to get our passport stamped, we were told that we would need to pay the visa fee again as our reciept for the last one was more than 90 days old. By the time we muddled through the payment process, it was pouring down rain. One more visit to the passport office, got stamped and tried to find the way to the bridge over the river which separates Mexico from Guatemala. We found a lovely ramp with turnstiles to the bridge, but they were zip tied shut and we were redirected back through the border area to the old entrance. No hints for newbies, no signs or directions. We walk accross the bridge and see only a tiny office with immigration marked above the door. The Guatemalan immigrations consisted of 1 guy behind a window who collected about $3 each in illegal fees and stamped us on our merry way. We took a bicab ( a three wheeled taxi bicycle) with us sitting in front and a guy peddalling us over to the bus station. The bus station was chaos with no timetables or schedules or fees posted anywhere. You just get approached  by guys trying to get a bus load for where ever they go. We got on the first class bus to Xela which is the local name for Quetzaltenango. About two hours later they tell us to get on a chicken bus for Xela, as they lied about actually taking us there. A local who witnesses this gives them hell for treating us poorly, but we still end up changing to a chicken bus in a driving rain to head up to the promised destination. We arrive in Xela at the public market next to the chicken bus station and grabbed  a cab to the centro or main plaza to seek out a hotel. A long rainy day, but it is much cooler and we have some new scenery to enjoy.
 We stayed in Xela a couple of days, and then headed for Panajachel on the banks of Lago Atitlan, a nice big crater lake. We got a hotel on the main drag which had window bench seats allowing you to sit in your second floor room and watch the world scurry by. Next day we got on the ferry to San Pedro la Laguna to check out of the lakeside life and get a little tour of the other side of the lake.

 

 A tuk tuk( 3 wheeled enclosed motorscooter with seat for two in the back) guy at the ferry dock offered us a tour for 200 Quetzales, we laugh and walk away and we settle on 50. He's a pretty nice guy with no english, who wants us to be happy with our tour, but also offers us several options for expanding the tour as we go. We settle for a ride to El Mirador, the lookout, and a tour of the local church.

The church is pretty much of a hoot, as it has a lifesize Mary on a donkey dressed as a Guatemala indian. and also glass casket with Jesus in it which has a slot in the top for donations. So Jesus is laying there with the usual pained suffering expression, and a bunch of bills and coins on his feet.

 

We decided to take a tourist shuttle to Coban, as it had been recommended as a good jump off for some local attractions. The shuttle left at 9:30, with a couple of hours off in Antigua, arriving at Coban at about 8. There was an earlier version which leaves at 6, but hey, we are on vacation. As it worked out, the connecting bus was about an hour late, and our first stop was to pick up all the people who took the early bus, but missed the connection to Coban, giving them a 6 hour lay over in Antigua. We had a nice long drive up the country, with a rest stop at a greasy spoon truck stop and another stop in Coban for 6 gallons of fuel. We went right on past Coban, without a stop at our hotel, but the next stop was Lanquin, so we assumed it was just outside town and we would circle back. We finally asked if anyone thought they were going to Coban, and found out they were all part of a hostel group going to Lanquin, about 2 hours past Coban. We are kind of concerned about what will hapen there, as the hostel group said their destination was all full. We pulled into Lanquin after a 30 minute ride down a dirt road about 12 km. long. There was chaos as the bags were unloaded off the top of the shuttle, but a local gave us a ride to a hotel in the back of his pickup truck. The hotel had a loud bar and simple accomadations, but it was hot and sweaty with construction and rooster noise before first light in the morning. We moved to the hotel accross the street which had fans in the rooms, thinking we might not be so hot there, and set off on a tour of the caves andh lagoons of Semuc Champey.

 It was fun swimming in dark caves trying to keep the candles lit, the guide was pretty entertaining, and there was a giant trapeze like swing on the river bank when we got done. The swing drops you about 10 to 12 yards up into the river. One memeber of our party was nearly killed when she froze and didn't let go over the water. Not killed, but some black and blue and a little bloody from landing on the ramp. She tried again and almost repeated the feat dropping aobut 6 feet from the rocky shore, giving us all heart attacks, thinking about helicopter evacuations, or bouncing for hours in a pickup truck to a hospital. The pools were as lovely as advertised, and all in all it was a good trip. the hangup being there was no way to get money in the tiny town of Lanquin, so we would have to walk back to Coban or go hungry. We found a pharmacy which would change dollars for Quetzales at a bad rate, so all was not lost. Of course that night there was a power outage for most of the night and the fan served only as a decoration. viewed by the candle provided by the hotel.
We headed back to Coban the next morning, Lanquin was down in a valley, but Coban is up the high country and much more comfortable. We went to a parrillada for dinner which was the best restaurant experience of the trip. Quiet, lovely place, excellent service, and yummy food with no surprises. The only funny part was the taxi driver who took us there didn't really know where it was and had to ask several people on the street even though we gave him the street number. Turns out it was only 2 blocks from the hotel, so we just walked back.
We decided to head to Chichicastenango the next day and had an easy trip, and settled into a nice  hotel. They have a nice big market, good mountain views, and the hotel owner whipped up a monster breakfast in the morning. The second morning he made hash browns which were delicious. He also roasted and ground his own coffee and had fresh eggs and fruit from the garden. It was fathers day with a church event, so a little more culture to soak up along the way.

Next we headed to Nebaj, a mayan town up in the cloudy mountains, the highest spot we have visited so far. They get few tourists up there and several people just stopped to stare at us as we walked by. Some just laughed out loud and pointed. The main attraction for us here is the scenery and the dramatic drive up into the mountains. Not much to do there, so we headed Huehuetenango to start back to Mexico. A bigger town, but the same reaction to me walking down the street. Pretty strange feeling, going to see the sights and being the main attraction. Just wanted to spend another night in the cool mountains, and then off to the frontier. We crossed aere there t the mexican city of Cuautemoc, where the entry was very casual. We didn't see a Guatemalan exit point for immigration, and when I asked the mexican official, he said we should go to town a few miles down the road and check in. When we got there, they couldn't find the exit stamp from Guatemala(surprise), so we have to wait for some other guy to look at our passports before we get the visa. We cross the street to  the bus station to find that a bus for Tapachula is scheduled to leave in 10 minutes. After some debate and half an hour waiting, we get on the collectivo to Comalapa, the next city on our route. Never saw the big bus, but that's not so strange. Spent the night there and decided that it was getting too hot to hang out, so off to Tapachula by collectivo. It is not as comfortable on the small busses, but you can leave in 10 minutes no matter what time it is. A litlle shopping in Tapachula, and off we go to the boat in Puerto Madera.
Bob is nowhere to be seen when we arrive, but we hear that he is a good swimmer after he boarded the neighbors boat and was startled into sliding off our boat into the water when accosted for his trespassing. They rescued him immediately, and he got a free swimming lesson. Joan saw him on another boat a little while later and we were reunited. He has been very affectionate lately, and just doesn't want to be left at home alone. All seems normal again.
The parts showed up the next day, but we had to wait a day for them to decide how much import taxes we must pay. Worked out to zero, just another day in the process. The mechanic picked up the parts and the pump and took them to the laboratorio for another go. The last we heard, he was to pick it up Saturday at 6 pm, and come install it on Sunday. Went for a little fishing trip with one of the marina jefes Saturday afternoon, caught 9 fish, good to get out on the water. Mid day Sunday, and we wait. We don't know what kind of provisioning, checking out or weather routing we are in for until the engine is running. Sunday rolls on by without anything new on that front. Went to town by collectivo to get some money and a little shopping and got caught in a torrential downpour. I made it out to the bus stop in front of the store without drowning and decided to wait for the rain to let up before crossing the 4 lane blvd. Saw a collectivo from the right neighborhood comind down the other side of the street, made a help me gesture by raising my hands above my head, and surprise, surprise, he stops in the middle of the road and waves me over. I splash accross the street and become the 23rd occupant of a 14 passenger van. When we get to the marina, he drives me down to the dock gate and asks which boat is mine. This saves me a quarter mile of walking and gets a big smile from everyone on the bus for showing them the boat at the dock.
Like I said things are back to normal.

Waiting in Marina Chiapas

Seems like we've been waiting forever. We got the document we needed from the coast guard thanks to my son Steven, but the engine is still without a few critical parts. We were waiting for the documentation, so we decided to check out the bad injector the prior mechanic in Barre de Navidad had warned us about. Upon delving into the running of the engine with each injector disconnected, it was obvious that cylinder #2 was not pulling its weight. After swapping the injector between #1 and#2, we knew that it was not the injectors fault. Looking at the pressure and rate of flow to each cylinder revealed that # 2 just was not getting its share.  Checking the entire fuel system revealed that the tank uptake was clogged. Clearing the line didn't change things, but the mechanic thought that the head gasket was leaking between cylinder 2 and 3. Jeff on Blue Jacket happened to have a spare gasket which he could replace over the summer and was willing to sell it to me.
We took the head off and the head gasket looked fine, but there was lots of carbon on the valves in 2nd and 3rd cylinders. He headed off to a mchine shop to re-seat the valves on Sat. afternoon hoping to get done same day. Sun. a little after noon, he returned with it all clean and renewed. We installed it and fired it up. Smoother, but still no improvement on # 2. He took photos of the pump and went to the diesel laboratorio to seek guidance.
Next day he returned and attempted to clean and free up the part of the pump serving cyl. #2. Still no change, so after some discussion, I let him take the injection pump to the laboratorio to see if they could fix it.
Three days later, he returned with alist of parts needed to complete the repair. We sat around for a few days while he searched for the parts in Mexico and Guatemala. The laboratorio suggested sending it to the mother lab in Guadalajara, where they could re build it in 12-14 days at about 4 times the cost of the local repair. When I pressed them about how reliable the time frame was and where the parts would come from, it became apparent that the parts would come from the USA distributor. At this point it seemed like ordering the parts from the USA and having them express shipped here would be faster and much less expensive, not to mention having a handle on the progress.
I called a couple of places to find that the only online store which had them could not ship them outside their territoy in Michigan and surrounding states. My pre paid phone ran out of minutes on the next call. Time for a break, I guess.

Next morning I fired off e-mail to a handfull of FL dealers and was told that the distributor was out of the parts. One offerred to have them express shipped from the factory and mail them to the FL address as soon as they come in.
Next day I hopped on a colectivo van to Tapachula to recharge the phone and get some plumbing parts to assemble a water filter to use to keep the sediment out of the tanks when filling them from the dock. I had to have a phone to place the order, so now I have done my part.
Now the plan is to get #1 son to forward them to us, and we will just take some time off from the heat and frustration by going to the highlands of Guatemala for about a week. One of the marina guys will feed Bob while we are gone.
We plan to head for Quetzaltenango tomorrow, then to Coban, and wherever sounds good from there.

Hot Times in Chiapas

Bird sitting on a turtle.

We have been in Marina Chiapas for about 10 days, it is a brand new marina being dedicated while we visit. So new that it is not on the charts yet, so we found it by tooling around the harbor until we came upon an un charted channel.  There was a greeting party when we arrived, so I guess they knew where we were, even if we didn't.

The boarding party.

 

We found out that the boat documentation we have been using to check into the marinas along the way is not the current one and we will not be able to get exit papers from Mexico until we produce the current one. We have turned the boat upside down a couple ot times to no avail, so I ordered a certified copy from the coast guard documentation center. We took a little trip to the colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas. to escape the heat. It is up in the mountains with a mild climate and lots of indians trying to sell us clothing and bangles of all sorts.

 We took a tour of Sumidero canyon and saw some monkeys and crocodiles. The canyon was formed by an opening  fault and had some 1000 meter faces along with water depths of 200 meters.

 The next day we visited the city market which was clearly the largest we have seen on this trip. Once we left the crafts section, we were in true Mexico with everything on earth for sale in stalls on the ground. It streched on for about 6 blocks square.

We took the midnight special bus back to Tapachula that night leaving at 10 p.m. and arriving in Tapachula at 6 a.m. They had to wake us up to clean the bus. We made it back to the marina by mid morning, where Bob eagerly awaited us.

I figured out that the documentation we ordered did not go through, so gave it another go. With extra time afforded us by this screwup and a big storm forecast to move up the west coast of Central America, we had a little time on our hands to look for trouble. The engine has not been running as smoothly or delivering the expected fuel economy, so we enlisted the aid of a local mechanic to check for a problem with the injectors. We went through the fuel system in detail, determining that the tank uptake was plugged and starving the injector pump. I cleared it up by blowing on rhe hose, but the engine ran only marginally better. By removing the fuel lines to each injector, we found that #2 & #3 cyliders were not contributing much, and probably had a blown head gasket causing them to leak compression between each other.
Where can we get another gasket? Not in Mexico, seems. After some digging around checking out going to Guatemala, or trying to order one from the US, we decided it was hopeless and we would just run it as is until we got to Ecuador. As luck would have it one of the other boaters getting ready to return to the states happened to have a spare for his Yanmar and was willing to let buy him a new one in the states in exchange for the spare.
The mechanic will alledgedly come put it on today.
We also initiated the costruction of a transom boarding ladder to make getting on the boat from the water easier. The welder seemed determined to no use my design exactly, but should bring me something before too long. I didn't front him any money,so it should be interesting.
Mechanic showed up mid day and proceded to remove the head from the engine. The head gasket looked intact, but the valves in cyl 2 and 3 were pretty coated in carbon, especially no. 2. It only cost about $40 for him to take it to a shop and have the valves ground and the head cleaned, so we went for it. He didn't return that day, so we figured it would be Mon. before we got back on task.

The welder showed up with his version of the ladder, which I confess will probably serve us better than the current method of crawling aboard on your belly like a crocodile.

 

 

I had intended the hinge at the center to bear the load for the lower section when it was in the lowered position, but the welder needed to weld a piece of steel onto it which will drag in the water. I will have to mount it so that it does not stick sown farther than the transom of the boat/

 

The mechanic returned Sun. afternoon to reassemble the engine. When we fired it up, it sounded better, but still not up to par. Disconnecting the injectors revealled the weak link to be #2, as expected due to not much fuel coming from the pump on that line. More discussion led to him removing the injector pump and taking it to the Laboratorio Injection on Monday to have them inspect, clean and possibly repair it. If it is simple, it will cost about $80, and if it is complicated, they won't be able to get the parts, and will just reassemble it and return it. The mechanic is charging $80 to remove it, take it to the laboritorio, retrieve it when done and reinstall it. Seems like a reasonable wager to maybe get the engine back up to snuff.  Either way we should have it back together by Wed., The weather may give us a break on Thurs. and Fri., so if the documentation gets to Ruskin and is overnighted to here by Thurs. we may be able to leave for Ecuador. More icky weather is forecast for the weekend, so we just have to play it by ear.

 

 

 

The Rest of Mexico

We stayed in Zijuatenejo for four nights, did a bit of shopping, fueled up, and generally lazing about. When the first of May showed up, the government and all the banks shut down for May day, and the lead into cinco de mayo began. We headed out for Acapulco on the first breezy afternoon and were rewarded with a nice sail for about 12 hours. We wandered into Acapulco in the middle of the next day. We went into Bahia Puerto Marques, next bay down and anchored close to the new marina project in one of the calmest anchorages to date. No surge reached us at all. The next day a few jet skis and some banana boats showed up, but still a pretty nice spot. We were able to take a taxi from the beach to buy fuel  and groceries. By Friday, it was obvious that the Cinco deMayo frenzy was building, so we opted for a two night passage to Bahias de Huatulco to pass the mayhem at sea. A pretty easy passage brought us into Bahia de Sacrificios right as planned.
We got anchored and Joan went for a swim. Unfortunately, a bunch of jelly fish were already enjoying the clear water, yielding some nasty stings for her. Sigh, one of the last fabled paradises and we can't go in the water.
Moved to the town of Huatulco the next day and filled the fuel tanks again. The only spot to anchor near the fuel dock was pretty packed with fishing boats, so we kept an ear open for bumps in the night as the wind shifted. I got up a couple of times to find us within a boat length of a 40' sport fisher. The next morning I checked the wind foecast and we were lookig at three days of settled weather to cross the dreaded bay of Tehuantepec, famous for howling gales as weather fronts from the north are funneled across the narrow isthmus. A nice breeze came up, beam on, so we sailed along at wind speed in 5 to 7 knots and smooth seas fot the next 20 hours. These were perfect conditions for easy passagemaking, and it was a treat.
We had to motor for the next 24 hrs. As the same light breezes came from dead astern, which is too light to keep the sails filled as we try to move ahead of it.
We got to Puerto Madiera mid morning, and went into the port to find the marina. This marina is too new to be on any charts and they weren't answering the radio. We found an uncharted channel snaking off to the southeast and sure enough, the marina appeared at the end. A guy motioned us to slip, helped us get tied up, and intrduced us to the representatves from the navy, port captain, and customs, along with a german shepherd to come sniff Bob. Quite a production, but very courteous and professional. This is the final frontier with Guatemala about 15 miles south. It's hot, remote, and relatively secure, not too hard to go to town, and a very cheap place to leave the boat. We want to visit the colonial city of San Cristobal de las Casas in the mountains for a few days to escape the heat, and head back to the USA for a few months to sort it all out.

Bye Bye Barra, Hello Zihuatenejo

The more things change, the more they stay the same. We spent the next week getting ready to head south, finally deciding to wait another day to see what the resort had decth eided about us. Tuesday came and went, so I inquired on Wed. morning and was invited toHe an evening meeintroduced with the director of the resort. He was busy and sent the food and beverage manager in his place. They offered to replace all the items for which we could produce an original sales invoice, and free moorage for the remainder of the month.
Fair enough, too bad we have almost no invoices. Another day or two shopping and getting what invoices we may have together, and off we go.
Thursday morning I head for town, stop for coffee and The coffee shop proprietess asks if I was the one who had a computer stolen and did my wife's name start with a J. If so they recovered the computer at the police station, and we should go retrieve it. Sigh, here we go again.
Next morning, we pop up and head off to the police station in Cihuatlan, accompanied by Jim from Hajime, our neighbor in the marina. Water taxi to Barra, 8 blocks to the bus stop, 30 minutes on the bus, and 8 bocks to the police station, and here we are. They have no idea why we are here, and when we explain, they want to know why we have no report on file for the robbery. After explaining that the marina is in the next state over, Colima, and that we did indeed file a claim in Colima. They seem to be scolding us for not filing a report here, and when we appear confused by their language, they talk louder and faster. They finally go for an interpreter who tells us he doesn't know english, but does know Dino, the harbormaster, so I get he and Dino together on the phone resulting in us being told to let the police handle it and we should come back to the marina.
Off we go to the supermarket, where I find a mount for the TV and a HDMI cable. It is the only supermarket in the area so we get as much supplies as we can carry. While waiting for the bus, Jim introduces me to Tubo, a fermented palm sap based drink, cold and refreshing with peanuts floating in it.
Long day, but not over yet. Dino wants to talk about our visit to Cihuatlan. I have also received an email from the coffee lady saying she talked to her friend Jimmy, and i t is definitely Joan's PC, but it is around the corner from where we went. I show him the e-mail and he wants me to meet with the manager and try to get to the bottom of this. I go see the manager and he pulls in the head of security, and tells him to send some guys with me to check it out. They show up at the boat with a suburban, a driver, 2 security guys and the dockmaster to help with the translation. We show up at the police station, it is high security with a steel door with bullet proof glass and a peephole. A guy in all bulletproof comes out to explain that this is the jail and maybe the ministry of justice is the place for us.
Back to the morning destination for another visit. It's friday after lunch on a fiesta weekend and no one is about. We scare up someone who thinks we should go to the public ministry  down the street because that is where stolen property goes. We head on over, but alas it is friday after lunch on a fiesta weekend. We wait around for half an hour so they can get someone to help us out. Yep, friday etc. Back to the land yacht for the return trip to the marina.
Next day, I return to the coffee shop for some coffee and hopefully some clarification. I ask coffee lady about Jimmy and she points him out to me a couple of doors down on  the  sidewalk. He didn't really know much about it, a mexican friend told him about it.  He called a friend who said it would definitely be at the public ministry, if they had it.
Monday we go to the office to see what is happening. They call security guy, he's in a meeting, but will be down in a bit. Around 3 hours later a guy with .45 in his belt shows up at the door and the security guys and another gunslinger whom I had met previously. The new guy is introduced as the jefe from Jalisco. I tell them about my weekend conversation with Jimmy, we talk about it for a while, and they decide to go talk to the coffee lady, her friend Jimmy, and the mexican guy who told him about the computer. After that, they will go to the public ministry and check on the computer.
I asked on Wed. For a progress report, and was told that the investigation continues. So on thurs. We set out on a shakedown cruise to make sure the boat was working properly. It went well enough that we sailed overnight and spent the next night in Coleta de Campos, 140 miles down the coast. Got up the next morning and sailed to Zihuatenejo, got here around 2 a.m.

Aye Caramba, Trouble in Paradise

After concluding our business in the US, we headed back to Mexico for more sailing adventures. Unfortunately, we were in for an unpleasant surprise upon returning to the boat. The hatch board had been cut with a torch to remove the lock hasp and gain entry. We immediately informed marina security, they appeared as surprised as we were. After each level of security checked it out, we got new and more senior level of security. Everyone seemed to think "this can't happen here". Tell  that to our computers, telvisions, and handheld radios and GPS's. Though not entirely inconceivable, this is a part of travel in a foreign country with a lot of stuff. I went to the justice department wirh the harbormaster, and several levels of security guys the next day to file a formal report. We have been hanging around waiting for a detective to come investgate for about a week now. It is very important that we be here to complete the process. We are getting our slip for free until this happens.
It is just as well, as I have determined that our inability to stop the boat with reverse power appears to be a transmission problem. When we had the local gringo mechanic take a look, he pointed out a coolant leak likely caused by a corroded exhaust manifold. He proposes that we pull the transmission and engine, and take it to his shop for evaluation. He has never seen a saildrive like we have before. Honest, I didn't mean to punch that tarbaby again and again, but we appear stuck for the moment. A local mechanic is coming by today after lunch to disassemble it and assess the damage. We have a few options at this point, but they will all take some time to happen.
Local mechanic comes by, takes a look, and asks how long I will be here. Upon explaining that we want to be on our way soon, he recommends a friend who can mess with it now, as he is in the middle of a big job and has little time available. The other guy shows up in a couple of hours and looks in the transmission and sees that now and then the gears don't quite slide into place but hit on edge and go no further. The gears have flattened edges from wear and could be replaced if you could find them. In the absence of that, the solution is to  put it in neutral and try again. He takes the manifold off to check for leaks and takes it with him to check and clean the heat exchanger core. We don't see him for three days until visiting day on Thursday.
On thursday, we get two groups of crime scene investigators, detectives and photographers to chronicle what went on with the robbery. In between the two groups the mechanic shows up at the end of the dock, hands me the mainfold all clean and freshly painted, and says ne needs to find O-rings to re-install the heat exchanger. About a 2 minute interchange and he is gone back on the boat and the second group of investigators shows up to check out the boat. Altogether 15 officials visited us and took the details of our stuff, where it was on the boat and where we thought it might have gone. Now we have done our civic duty and the management of the marina will meet to determine fair compensation for our trials and tribulations.
Meanwhile back in the engine room, nothing heard from the mechanic for the rest of the week. On Saturday, the mechanic shows up, but without o-rings as they are made of a triangular material instead of the usual round stuff. We settle on a nice coating of high temp silicone on the old ones and put the engine back together. Alas,the control cable doesn't fit with the new controller, and we need to find another one. So off they go to find a cable and they will come back on Lunes (monday). I tell them they never come when they say and he tells me "hey, it's Mexico, land of manana". I give them my saddest look and say it would please me if they would actually show up on monday.
The guy comes back on monday amazingly, and we see that the new cable doesn't fit either. Turns out to be operator error, I couldn't tell whether the throttle was pull type or push type,  so I just guessed and I guessed wrong. When we sorted that out and switched the controller connection, the throttle worked fine. The new cable is much smoother than the old one, so it is all good.When we fired up the engine, there was a leak at the exhaust elbow. On closer examination, there was a hairline crack in the weld, which we had all overlooked. He came back the next day with a fresh weld on the exhaust elbow, we installed it and everything looks good. Total cost for the repair was about $200us. Pretty amazing as the first guy to come to the boat wanted to take it all back to his shop and charge us aobut $4-6000 for a bunch of stuff we didn't need. "Hold on to your wallet" is my mantra when dealing with Americans in Mexico from now on.
Meanwhile back at the Marina, the local management seems to lack authority to make a final determination, so we will be waiting on the big guns in wherever they hang out to figure it out. We were asked to stay 6 more days and for certain it will be a done deal. Seems like a Mexican standoff, but who knows. Maybe they are hoping we will just leave, absolving them of responsibility, or the police will find our stuff and return it. We still have a little more to do, so we may keep playing a bit longer, and get a few more things off our boat improvement wish list. Sorry, I can't seem to upload pictures without a pc at this time, so use your imagination.

South to Manznilla, sorta

We checked out of the marina and made plans to head South. The ATM was broken in La Paz, so we were short on pesos, but hey, atms are everywhere. Had a nice sail to Punta de Mita and a rolly night at anchor, the surf was just rolling in at a bad angle relative to the boat as dictated by wind direction... Decided to go to Islas Tres Marietas to check out the snorkeling and bird watching. Lots of whales as usual, but the anchorage at the park had mooring buoys and we thought they were too close together for us to fees safe leaving the boat unattended. So off we went to Caleta Ipala, a few miles down the coast. Had good wind and pulled in at about 6 pm. to find things arranged differently than we expected from the guide books. As we circled a fish pen looking for a spot to anchor, a fisherman sitting in a panga wearing a wet suit and flippers motioned us toward a spot near shore. As we came about even with his boat, he pointed down indicating the proper spot. It looked good to me, so we dropped anchor and had a nice peaceful night.

The surf was pretty rough on the beach, so we decided to forego the shore and go to the next anchorage, which was at Bahia Chamela. Another good day sailing, with following winds it took about 6 hours to make the 50 miles down the coast. We had moderately smooth anchorage there, and were able to go ashore by dinghy and practice our surf landing. Handling a dinghy in surf is all about timing. The waves come in sets with much smaller waves in between the big ones. You just wait for the last big wave and ride in right after the last one, then drag the dinghy up on the beach before any more big ones show up. Not really as easy as it seems, but definitely possible. One of the first ones earned me a big bonk on the shin when the dinghy tried to go back out with me standing behind it trying to push it  up on the beach. I'll be pulling it from now on.  The town was too small to have a bank or ATM, but we were able to eat a good meal at a beach side restaurant. The next day 10 or 12 shrimp boats came in  and anchored nearby. They stayed a couple of days, probably because of the norther that was coming. good time to head south before we got pinned in here for a few days waiting out the norther.

We set out for points south, but were uncomfortable with the nearby anchorages due to the impending north winds and accompanying rough seas.
This let us in for a long day sail to Bahia Tenacatita. A pretty nice spot with lots of boats just hanging out at the anchorage and going ashore for volley ball and boccie ball games in the afternoons.We had read about a dinghy trip through the mangroves to a beach near the point, so we headed on out the next morning. It was a long ride to a dock with a locked gate, but a large hole in the fence next to it. We went through the hole and came upon an armed state policeman, so we asked if it was ok to be there. He told us to go on to the beach, so we had a nice walk up to the end of the beach where we were greeted by another police man who told us we could go to jail for trespassing. We weren't sure where we had trespassed, but the locked gate was obviously part of the deal. We volunteered to head on back to avoid any problems, and headed back down the beach. As we got to the place with the gate, we crossed over to the dock for the dinghy. I looked up and the police were headed our way in their truck, so we hopped in the dinghy and headed back for the boat. It appears that the entire settlement of Bahia Tentacacita was on private property and the original owner had reclaimed the land with the aid of the government. They bulldozed the restaurants and houses on the land and put a gate and fence up to keep people out. The beaches in Mexico are public property, but the strip of land next to this one was private.
We went to the town of La Manznilla on the east end of the bay the next day with the big boat. A pretty quiet little tourist town with good enough shopping, but no bank presence. We were told that a bus runs down to Melaque every couple of hours and that was where the nearest bank could be found. We had a few dollars and found a store that would take them, and bought some fresh food. We spent another night in Tentacacita, and sailed down to Cuastecomate the next day. It was one more place with excellent snorkeling according to the guide books. Nice quiet anchorage with some beach side restaurants and a hotel, but nothing else.

 We decided to trek into Melaque the next day as it was only a couple of miles down the road. I took the bike and Joan went afoot. The road went up about 600 feet before it went down to Melaque, so the bike was useless for about half the trip, but handy for the other side. Joan caught up to me waiting in line for the ATM at the local bank. After about 45 minutes in line, it turned out that he machine didn't like my card. In fact it didn't like very many other peoples cards either. I went into the bank to see if I could get a cash advance on a credit card or some help. They only do cash advances on cards issued by the owning bank, but the helpful employee came out to the machine to swipe my card a few times in case I lacked proper technique. One of the people in line told me that one of their friends card wouldn't work in this machine, but worked in the one in Barre de Navidad. Its only a couple of miles by bicycle, so off I went. Unfortunately the machine was out of cash, so this was not going to happen today. I got in a cab with the bike in the trunk and rode back up to Cuastecomate. It looked like I would have to go up to Cihuatlin to get a real bank. I heard that there was an ATM at the hotel with the marina that usually worked, so we decided that would probably be the next try. We sailed around the corner from Cuastecomate to Melaque and anchored there for the night. When we went into town, the bank liked my card, and we were once again allowed to stimulate the local economy.

We stayed there a couple of nights and then moved into the lagoon at Barre de Navidad. This was a fabled protected anchorage where there would be no swell bouncing us at night. It was free from ocean swell, but the local fishermen showed up at about 3 am casting for bait among the anchored boats. Bright lights, lots of conversation, and nets and boats banging around. The anchorage was pretty convenient, with water taxis to take you to town, but it was also sheltered from the wind, making it hotter than out by the ocean. On calm nights no-seeums and mosquitoes showed up, so it generally did not suit our needs. The best shopping was up in Melaque, a cheap bus ride away, but you have to walk about 9 blocks to get to the bus station. It was ok to take a taxi back with the goods and get dropped off at the water taxi dock, but my Achilles tendons were getting very sore and every long walk made them worse. I was trying to negotiate a rate to stay in the marina, but it took quite a while to settle on something I could stand. The original shore term rate was about $2.70/ft per day or about $3k per month. They realized that the empty marina wasn't making them any money and lowered the rate by about 3/4, but still would have been $900/month to leave the boat there. After about 10 days of back and forth, we got in for 2 months for about the regular cost for one month.

In the interim, we went down to Bahia Santiago, near Mazatlan and checked that out for a few days, and returned to Tentacacita for a few more days. When we went into the marina, we could go swim in the pools, ride the waterslides, and have hot showers. I bought a fan to put in the hatch at night to cool things down and keep the bugs away. A side benefit was that the fan drowned out all the outside noise and provided a peaceful night. We got Bob a rabies shot and health certificate so that he could accompany us to Tampa, where my son was getting married March 3. Won't be much more boat stories till we return at the end of March and resume our wandering. Current plan is to head down to El Salvador and then maybe Costa Rica and Ecuador, but who knows what the future may hold.

Mainland Bound

We dropped down to La Paz for a few days to provision and get a little more organized. We had a couple of boisterous windy days running down wind, recording a max of 17.6 knots on one leg. We made it to La Paz in pretty much record time.
We lost a couple of batteries to old age or abuse while in Puerto Escondido, and La Paz is definitely the place to get new ones. I just removed the batteries which came with the boat, as they were not holding a charge and were dragging the new batteries we installed in CA. down the tubes. The dedicated starting battery was not starting the engine consistently, so I bought a new high end Optima battery to replace that one and removed the other two house batteries that came with the boat. Net result was about 120 Lbs. of lead out of the bilge with no loss of capacity.   We headed out of La Paz on December 22 to go anchor on Esperito Santu island for a night and then down to Ensenada de los Muertos for the launch off to the mainland. It was pretty windy going down to Muertos and we waited 2 nights there for the norther to run its course. We got a weather  grib file over the ham radio and it looked like Christmas day would be perfect with winds easing slightly over the next day. We set out in about 20 knots ripping along at about 10-12. As is usually the way this works, the winds built slightly all day and we had a rough night with 25+ knot winds all night. We had to reduce sail and slow the boat so that off watch could get some sleep. The area we were crossing is the convergence of the Gulf of California with the Pacific Ocean, complicated by the tides from the gulf interacting with the Ocean, along with three days worth of windblown seas. All in all a pretty rough nightr, but we were anchored at Mazatlan by mid day.
We anchored outside the harbor by isla de los chivos(goat island) and went ashore to Benjis Pizzeria for a garlic shrimp pizza and sonme beers. Yummy. Next day we went into Mazatlan to explore and to have a shower at the Club Nautico. For a small fee, you can dock your dinghy securely, take a shower, dump your trash and get a bus into town. The place had definitely seen better days, but we were in need and they were available. We found the main market and historic district, and came back to the boat and the pizza place for dinner. Next day we went into town to provision for a bit more roaming. The central market is a typical mexican market with everything from socks to fresh tripe. All the fresh produce, groceries, meat and fish and everything else in one location with 50 vendors set up in one place. Got loaded up and set out mid day for Isla Isabel. A famous bird santuary in a somewhat remote area off the coast.

Got some really good looks at some whales toward evening, but the always seem to be underwater when the shutter clicks.
We pulled into the anchorage early morning and dropped anchor next to a couple of boats we had been next to in La Paz  a week earlier.Lots of whales near the island in the morning. We identified Blue, Humpbacked and Pilot whales from the anchorage.We snorkeled some, but not too impressive as the water was kind of cloudy from the windy day.Next day we snorkeled the other side of the island and I scribbed the scum off the bottom of the boat. A rather amazing amount of slime builds up in couple of months. Winds pick up from a more notherly direction, giving us a rolly lumpy night close to a rocky shore. We would have left in the night, but a couple of other boats had come in and anchore rather close to us and we didn't want to have to worry about hitting them in the dark. First thing in the morning we hoist anchor and head for San Blas for a night in a little more sheltered spot. We had a great sail, mostly running before the wind at aobut 9-10 knots and as the wind slowed and shifted, we had fast reaching at about the same speed but with nearly no rough seas. The boat next to us hoisted sail right after we did, but they vnaished in the distance pretty quickly. We went ashore to a beach side restaurant and had garlic shrimps for dinner. The bay is very shallow and gradual sloped, so that if you were to leave your dinghy, the tide could leave it a few hundred feet from the water. Not much fun to drag it back to the water, so we kept a close eye on it. It started to rain when we went back to the boat and as we got on board and out the dinghy up, the other boat from isla isabel showed up and anchored right next to us. This in a by which is 3 miles wide with only us and one other boat in it.
Next morning it is still raining and the wind has shifted to the south, so we decided to just head south, make some wather and try to find a nice place to hang out. We were going to Chacaly, but with the southerly winds, we were concerned about another rough night. We continued on to Rincon de Guayabitos to take advantage of the southerly wind keeping the sell down in this otherwise bit surf spot. We went ashore in the dighy to find a pretty busy mexican tourist resort with few Americans. It was pleasant and we decicded to stay as long as the weather would allow us smooth anchorage.
As usual that lasted till about 2 in the morning, when a 3 foot swell started to bounce us thoroughly.
Off to next shelter from the northwest swells of the pacific. We caught a nice tuna and some cero(spanish mackerel), but just kept the tuna. Punta de Mita appeared in the distance and we anchored off the town front. Pretty busy holiday activity, lots of tourists, many north Americasn. Lots of people surfing or paddle boarding. The swell which rolls around the point providing surf, also gives us a rocking motion on the boat. Not so bad sitting or sleeping, but hard to cook or make coffee.

 The second day here, I rented a paddle board and playhed in the surf. The board was a bit small for me,and I couldn't get much of the stand up thing going, but I go several good rides in a kneeling. position. Witn a larger board and a little practice, this could be fun. I never could see why people wanted to just paddel around on one, but the surf changes everything. I am not nimnble enough to start on my belly on a surfboard and hot up with a wave, but if you are already up, its pretty sweet.
Next morning I was too sore to think about a repeat performance, so we moved on to La Cruz del la Huantaxcle. We anchored out in front of the marina, but had another kind of bouncy night. We decided it was time to go into someplace quiet and get some rest and a hot shower.

The marina had a slip available to fit Hot Sauce, so that was  a treat, they usually charge about 50% premium, for us taking up too much space. We looked at the marina plan and it state that the slips were 10m wide or 33 feet, so 28 wide Hot Sauce would be a breeze. We tooled in to the marina, and as I neared the slip, I could see the attendant looking kind of apprehensive. As we got closer, it became obvious that the 10m was center to center not one side to the other. meaning that thbe slip is about 30 feet wide. I slipped right in and he shouted 'Perfecto". What fun, the slip is about 90 feet long and could hold anther Hot Sauce easily behind us. We talked to other people in he marina and they seemed amazed that we made it to Mazatlan in 30 hours, most of them spent 2 or 3 nights out, proof positive that fast is fun.

Some cat tried to come on the boat in the wee hours of the morning, and Bob had a hissy fit. Pretty funny except for being awakened at 4 am.

Checking out the Baja

Headed out of La Paz for a bit of sight seeing. Had a nice sail from La Paz to Bahia Glorieta, where we spent the night. 14 boats in anchorage, but it is large and un crowded. A south wind came up late and bounced us soundly for most of the night.
Up early and off to Bahia Grande for a little shelter from the south winds.5 boats in anchorage.  Did some snorkeling, not very clear, but some fish to look at. Good to get off the boat and get a bit of exercise, along with a bath. We fill the sun shower and when we get done with the snork, we wash off and rinse with hot fresh water. Gotta love that  watermaker. Wind came up from the west in the night, so another bouncy night.
Up early for Puerto Evaristo. Sailed most of the way in southerly winds. Wind died about an hour out, so we threw out a line and hooked a nice dorado.

 What a treat to catch and a better treat to eat. They always jump and this one did it a dozen times or so. Got to Evaristo early, but too cloudy to snorkel.6 boats in achorage.  Nice ilttle place with a restaurant on the beach and a peaceful anchorage for a good nights sleep. We inquired about a local store, but the road was washed out in a storm last summer and the vegetable truck hasn't been by in the last week, so no produce. Cloudy in the morning so off we go to Puerto Los Gatos. Get there early, snorkel for a bit, and a quiet evening by ourselves for the first time on the trip. One more beautiful spot, with stunning desert scenery all about.
Next morning we headed up toBahia Agua Verde for the best snorkeling yet, even if it did cloud up early. We explored the town, but being sunday evening, all was closed but the churches. Little to be had if it was open, as there was no electricity in evidence, so probably no refrigeration.. We still had yummy dorado made in a rice stew, so no hardship.
Off to Puerto Escondido in the morning to get situated before the forecast Norther came along. No luck there, windy in our face from the start building through the day. Got in about 3 pm after a long day pounding into the wind at about 4 knots. The 2 day blow ran out in the middle of the night, Weather forecasting must be harder than it looks. We wanted to investigate leaving the boat in Puerto Escondido and flying back to Tampa for a week be Xmas, but it is nearly impossible from here without hiring a plane or some such. Caught a ride up to Loreto, did a little sight seeing and shopping. The most expensive store we have been to with lots of american products, must be living off the tourists. Taxi wanted $35 to drive us the 14 miles back to Puerto Escondido, so we hitchiked. After hitching for about an hour with no luck( a couple of offers to take us out in the wasteland and leave us stranded), a bus came by and brought us down for aoabut $8.
Have been here for a couple of days, and will head out to the islands for a couple of days tomorrow.
We  have decided to head over to the mainland from here, but will probably go down to La Paz to provision for the crossing.The stores are much better there than here. We also want to add a bit more shade to the back of the boat before we take off, so La Paz is the place to get that handled. The crossing is a big deal to the local cruisers, but only about 180 miles from the jumping point west of La Paz. It's pretty much impossible for us to plan an arrival because sometimes we go 12 knots and sometimes 5 depending on the wind and seas. Makes it hard to know what time to leave, as you want to arrive with good light from behind when going into somewhere new. We are jsut blowing in the wind, but it's all good.

Boppin Down the Baja

It has been nearly impossible to get online lately.  That and other appropriate excuses to be invented later will explain our lack of updates.
We left San Diego mid day to go to the Coronado Islands in  Mexico for the night. Had good winds broad reaching at about 9 knots with following seas. Got to the islands at about 4, but the wind was more notherly than normal and the anchorage was rolly. We loolked about for a better spot and found none. The islands are surrounded with big metal pens which are used to fatten up the yellowfin tuna that will be shipped to Japan when ripe enough. We didn't feel adventurous enouhg to anchor near them and the attendant boats, so we headed on down to Ensenada. Had good winds and could have gotten there at about midnight or so, but didn't want to go into an unfamiliar port at night. Spent the night with just a tiny bit of sail up trying to keep the boat speed down to about 4 knots and arrive at dawn. What an irony, first day of sailing and we have to try to go slow all night.
\Go to Ensenada early morning to find that they do not allow anchoring in the harbor any more. The cruising guides age quickly around here. .We went into the first marina and got ready to check in to Mexico. The marina made copies of all the relevant documents and made me go to buy Mexican Liability insurance. Required if you want to import your boat. Messed around and got to the official office building around 1. The process was a little tedious, but really just stand in this line, go pay the fee in that line, come back to this line, take this paper to that line, get a new paper, go pay over there, come back and so forth for about an hour or so. Did it all with only the help of the marina to give us the right number of copies to satisfy the beaurocrats. We had been told that to import the boat, would be an onerous task and would require an agent, but it just happened in the shuffle, with no special effort on our part. If you do not import the boat, you dannot leave it unattended in Mexico, so we can now keep it here for 10 years and come and go as we like.
Because of the width of Hot Sauce, we got charged for two slips, with a typical "'Lo siento senor", but for you a $10 discount, so $50 for the night.
Joan went to Walmart to provision, and we left mid day for the Islas De Todo Santos, where we tied up to a floating barrel instead of anchoring by the fish pens. A couple of guys came out in a work boat and told us that the one we had chosen was not safe, so they guided us to one that was well anchored and out in the ocean swell. The swell was to become our friend after all the time since Washington, but not really, it was just a PITA. Kind of like an endless series of large boat wakes bashing you 24/7.
Headed down the coast to Bahia Colnett next day in cloudy, slightly rainy weather. Motored all day with light following winds. Got there about 21:30, used the radar and gps to get to the right spot.
Up early motoring to Isla San Martin.  Wind was still too notherly to make the anchorage on the west side comfortable, and the south side was pretty socked in with kelp so we continued to Bahia San Quintin. Had to make a few minor repairs, as a couple of bolts holding the main sheet traveller track had sheared off while flying the spinaker. Joan successfully checked into a ham net in the morning. Some of the equipment on the boat generates considerable interference. Turning off the inverter and the refridgerator seemed to fix the problem. When she transmits on the radio, the knot meter loses its mind and records speeds of as much as 46 knots. Zoom (virtually), but makes it harder to record average speeds at the end of the day. Most of the passages so far have winds at about 10 knots directly astern, which allows us to go about 5 knots, but at that speed the wind over the decks is about 5 knots and it does not fill the sails well enough to stabilize the boat. The swell leave us popping and jerking the sails with the main trying to jibe every few minutes. We tie it off to the side, but it is just much more compfortalbe to motor, with the exception of smelling the exhaust wafting over the boat the whole time. It's easier to fish when motoring, on the bright side.

Motored down to Punta Baja. We were able to sail smartly a couple of times, but only an hour or two before the wind went back to 8-9 knots. Very rolly anchorage as the swells roll around the point and break on the beach beside us. Up early and on the way to do an overnighter to a quieter anchorage.
Head out for Isla Cedros with good wind 15-20, running before the wind with just the genoa up at 10-12 knots, surfed at 17 once or twice. As evening came up we were seeing 25-30 knots, so rolled most of the genny in to slow the boat enough to allow off watch to sleep. At higher speeds, you tend to dive off the top of some of the waves, which gives a sense of weightlessness or falling to the off watch. Arrived at Cedros at dawn with wind about gone. Tried to start the engine but got only click click click. decided to try the outboard for a bit, but the swells lifted the prop out of the water every few minutes and it was a poor substitute for an inboard diesel.Had a look and found that there was a layer of nice fluffy white salt on the starter from an exhaust cooling water leak. The leak turned out to be just a loose clamp. Engine oil was low and some spilled about the bilge, but I added oil and all looked ok. Washing all the salt off fixed the electrical issue and the engine started. Motored down to Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay) and anchored. Before I could get the anchor off the boat, a panga approaced to see if we needed fuel or other services. After I got the anchor set, I arranged for him to bring me some fuel. We went into town, kind of a funky place where the fellow with the panga services runs the dock and has someone excort us to a wonderful(his term) store, and points out the best restaurant. Surprise, Enrique's family owns all these businesses.  There is a little more town further up, but it takes an effort to shake the guide and just wander around. Kind of a grubby town, fallen on hard times after the cannery shut down on the waterfront. Outboard won't start, probably bad gas, got new gas, but still no start. Will wait to get somehere more permanent to mess with it. Rowing ashore or paying  a buck a head each way to Enrique is a deterent to getting to town, so it is about time to wander on.

After a couple of nights rest, we continue down the coast, leaving at mid day when the wind picks up on the day before Turkey day. Nice wind lets us sail at 10 or so for 4 or 5 hours, thinking we'll be at Mag bay at dawn. Of course when the wind dies down, we are motoring at 5 or so all night and only get half as far as we hoped by dawn. wind comes up for a few hours of sailing, then back to motoring at about noon. Caught a nice yellow fin tuna  about 6#, yummy. would have kept more of it if we had known it would be the only one. Saw a bunch of whales, dolphins and assorted wildlife on the way, catching little tuny by the score, finally give up on the fishing as we have more of them than we care to eat. Mostly they are a treat for Bob.
Go into Bahia Santa Maria, just above Bahia Magdalena to anchor and catch up on sleep. Quiet night at anchor, pretty spot, not much else happening.
Head out for one last overnighter to Cabo early in the morning. Fogged in, so we wait for clearing to get past the lobster floats at the entrance. Uneventful long motoring day and night and day again. Hooked a nice dorado in the evening, but after Joan and I both fought with it till our arms cramped, it managed to break the line on the rudder when i tried to gaff it. Looked to be 4 feet long and about 30+ lbs.  Lots of unrealised yummy there.
Cruise into Cabo San Lucas just after sunset to a flurry of booze cruisers with DJs and karaoke machines going strong in the harbor. We get anchored by the beach to the tune of a couple of live bands and some team building rah rah on the shore. Loud, but we were sleepy.

 

Bob tries to catch a bug off the light.
Up and out early as slips are expensive and the mood here is mostly "Step right this way, have I got a deal for joo". We motor to San Jose del Cabos, a new resort marina and stop for fuel and a night at the dock. Well, we thought that was what we would do, but after finding out they wanted 112$us for a slip with no electricity, Internet or shower access, we decided to head on down the road. Wind was up, so we sailed at 10-12 knots into the wind for a few hours. Trouble with sailing into the wind is that you may go fast across the wind but you never make much time into the wind. We were making about 3 knots to windward, so back to the iron genny(motoring). Got into Bahia Los Frailes at about 8:30 at night and used the full moon and radar to position ourselves for a comfortable night.
Up and off for Ensenada de Los Muertes in the morning, more sailing, to the same effect, I get 15 miles out to sea and the wind shifts to the West by about 25 degrees making it impossible to get to windward in a timely fashion. Arrive at about 21:30 with 9 boats in the anchorage(popular spot). Nice enough place scenic, but with a tent city of fishermen and campers on the shore. Must have been 200 people camped out and 50 trailers at the boat ramp next door.

Bob dukes it out with a biscuit.
We motor up to Caleta Lobos next day arriving around 3:30 for some swimming and lounging about.
Swells come in all night through a gap between the island and the land, so a bumpy night.
Down to La Paz in the morning, anchoring out in front of Hotel de los Arcos(vacant but a good landmark). We dinghy into the dock in front of the hotel and walk about some, finding a good seafood restaurant and a grocery store. We were out of milk, eggs, and most perishables, so it was time to shop. Next morning, we tuned into the cruisers net on VHF and hooked up with the local outboard guru. He kept the motor overnight did a carb overhaul, complete service, with new grease on all fittings, and changed the lower oil for $100.
The anchorage we are in is swept by strong tides and cross winds, so all the boats are in motion. We get pretty close to another boat in the morning and decide to move a little ways, but to the same results next morning. everyone has what they deem to be the right amount of anchor line or chain out and swings as far as that allows with the wind and tides. We are unaccustomed to this close space and may not ever like it. When we go into the dock today,
We head into the Marina de la Paz for a couple of nights to do laundry, have real showers, wash the salt off the boat, clean the water tanks, and provision. I misjudged the cross current and got sucked onto a dock coming in, knocked some paint and filler off the port ama. Within an hour of getting tied up, a local entrepreneur is trolling the dock for work. We agree on a price and he is sanding and repairing the bobo within the hour. Seems to know his stuff pretty well, hope it comes out well. The construction of this boat is cosmetically fragile, but easily repaired. Glad to have someone take a task off the list instead of adding to it.

Down the Road,,uhh, Coast We Go

Got started bright and early on Friday, Oct. 26, for a run down the coast, final destination San Diego for this leg.

Made it to Pillar Point harbor at Half Moon Bay on the first day. some decent sailing, after very light winds out the Golden Gate. Motored most of the way past San Francisco before we could sail. Auto pilot not working correctly, compass goes crazy when we try to go any where but southerly direction.
Decided to move the compass to a location further from the new water maker pump to try to eliminate interference. We Got lucky this time and it cleared up the issues, but in the analysis of this, we discovered that most of our "stainless" cutlery is magnetic and influences the flux of the flux gate compass. You can put a knife next to the compass and it throws the reading off by 30 degrees.
Had a very quiet night anchored inside the breakwaters of this secure harbor.
Sailed down the coast in good winds making about 10 knots most of the day, but had a new issue with the autopilot. The Drive arm connecting the ram to the tiller comes unscrewed and stops being connected every couple of hours. We headed into Santa Cruz to anchor for the night. Surf coming around the point makes for a bit of a rolly anchorage.
Sailed down the coast to Pebble Beach next to Carmel, and anchored in a small kelp filled cove off the golf course. Lots of birds and otters here. Heavy fog showed up mid afternoon. Rolly anchorage as the surf rolled around the point and bounced us about.
Fogged in early, but as the morning wore on, it started to break up. We headed out early for a long sail to anchor in San Simeon on the other end of Big Sur. Got back into fairly heavy fog after a few hours and the radar began to earn its keep. Got to sail some, but wind shifted to directly behind us and dropped to below 10 knots. not enough to steady the boat in some pretty lumpy seas. We motored with sail up for the next 12 hours or so, and reached San Simeon too early to enter, so we continued to San Luis Obispo. As we entered the harbor, we decided that we could just go the rest of the day and we could round Point Conception before dark.

We also got a look at the secret rocket launch site above the point. No mention on the charts, but there it is.

Since this point marks the end of northern California and the entry to warm, southern waters, we rounded the point an hour before sunset and anchored at Cojo anchorage just to the east of this major milestone. Pretty nice night, windy and cold, but not too bouncy.
Got up early next day and motored to Santa Barbara for a quiet night tied to a dock in a marina. Hot showers, a nice restaurant meal and all is well.
Decided to go out to the anchorage outside ht harbor for the next night as most of our land side duties were complete by mid day and we wanted an early start for warmer climates the next day. Lots of boat out there but not many were occupied. We discovered why later at night when the swells bounced us all night long.
Headed out for Channel Island Harbor the next morning early. Uneventful trip, motoring all the way. Boats were coming out and putting up sail as we entered the harbor, but wind was only about 10 knots. This was the pattern for the rest of the trip, whenever we got near the destination, an evening breeze came up that we could have sailed in for a couple of hours.
Next morning we headed out for Santa Barbara Island just west of Catalina Island. It was a full days motoring and motor sailing till we anchored just before sunset. It was pretty windy, but quiet enough to get to sleep easily. Several times in the night big waves just about bounced us out of bed. I think it was ships passing in the Santa Barbara ship channel, but who knows. We were eager to leave in the morning, so we headed out for San Diego.
Arrived at the entry to San Diego bay at about 4 am on Monday. Got to the area of the marina, found a vacant end tie and moored for a nap till business hours. Found out we were at the wrong marina, and got re-directed to the correct dock. We go stuffed in front of a derelict catamaran with a great garden of sea life rotting at its water line. It reeked, and we were at the corner by the entry to a huge harbor and lots of boats bounced us about all day long. San Diego is the noisiest place er have ever seen. Between the airport next door and the Navy helicopters and fighter jet s flying all around it is quite disturbing. We decided to move to another marina billing itself as the newest in San Diego. It was so new that they hadn't built the dockside facilities. So no bathrooms or showers or parking or any of the normal amenities existed. It was much closer to all the businesses we would need to interact with.
Tomorrow we will be moving to the harbor police dock, which has the same rate, but also has showers, and other human necessities. We are waiting to see how an Alaskan cold front will play out before we move on to Mexico. We will probably leave on Sunday or Monday after the weather settles down.