The Boat

The Boat
Cruising along in British Columbia

Monday, April 1, 2013

Aye Caramba, Trouble in Paradise

After concluding our business in the US, we headed back to Mexico for more sailing adventures. Unfortunately, we were in for an unpleasant surprise upon returning to the boat. The hatch board had been cut with a torch to remove the lock hasp and gain entry. We immediately informed marina security, they appeared as surprised as we were. After each level of security checked it out, we got new and more senior level of security. Everyone seemed to think "this can't happen here". Tell  that to our computers, telvisions, and handheld radios and GPS's. Though not entirely inconceivable, this is a part of travel in a foreign country with a lot of stuff. I went to the justice department wirh the harbormaster, and several levels of security guys the next day to file a formal report. We have been hanging around waiting for a detective to come investgate for about a week now. It is very important that we be here to complete the process. We are getting our slip for free until this happens.
It is just as well, as I have determined that our inability to stop the boat with reverse power appears to be a transmission problem. When we had the local gringo mechanic take a look, he pointed out a coolant leak likely caused by a corroded exhaust manifold. He proposes that we pull the transmission and engine, and take it to his shop for evaluation. He has never seen a saildrive like we have before. Honest, I didn't mean to punch that tarbaby again and again, but we appear stuck for the moment. A local mechanic is coming by today after lunch to disassemble it and assess the damage. We have a few options at this point, but they will all take some time to happen.
Local mechanic comes by, takes a look, and asks how long I will be here. Upon explaining that we want to be on our way soon, he recommends a friend who can mess with it now, as he is in the middle of a big job and has little time available. The other guy shows up in a couple of hours and looks in the transmission and sees that now and then the gears don't quite slide into place but hit on edge and go no further. The gears have flattened edges from wear and could be replaced if you could find them. In the absence of that, the solution is to  put it in neutral and try again. He takes the manifold off to check for leaks and takes it with him to check and clean the heat exchanger core. We don't see him for three days until visiting day on Thursday.
On thursday, we get two groups of crime scene investigators, detectives and photographers to chronicle what went on with the robbery. In between the two groups the mechanic shows up at the end of the dock, hands me the mainfold all clean and freshly painted, and says ne needs to find O-rings to re-install the heat exchanger. About a 2 minute interchange and he is gone back on the boat and the second group of investigators shows up to check out the boat. Altogether 15 officials visited us and took the details of our stuff, where it was on the boat and where we thought it might have gone. Now we have done our civic duty and the management of the marina will meet to determine fair compensation for our trials and tribulations.
Meanwhile back in the engine room, nothing heard from the mechanic for the rest of the week. On Saturday, the mechanic shows up, but without o-rings as they are made of a triangular material instead of the usual round stuff. We settle on a nice coating of high temp silicone on the old ones and put the engine back together. Alas,the control cable doesn't fit with the new controller, and we need to find another one. So off they go to find a cable and they will come back on Lunes (monday). I tell them they never come when they say and he tells me "hey, it's Mexico, land of manana". I give them my saddest look and say it would please me if they would actually show up on monday.
The guy comes back on monday amazingly, and we see that the new cable doesn't fit either. Turns out to be operator error, I couldn't tell whether the throttle was pull type or push type,  so I just guessed and I guessed wrong. When we sorted that out and switched the controller connection, the throttle worked fine. The new cable is much smoother than the old one, so it is all good.When we fired up the engine, there was a leak at the exhaust elbow. On closer examination, there was a hairline crack in the weld, which we had all overlooked. He came back the next day with a fresh weld on the exhaust elbow, we installed it and everything looks good. Total cost for the repair was about $200us. Pretty amazing as the first guy to come to the boat wanted to take it all back to his shop and charge us aobut $4-6000 for a bunch of stuff we didn't need. "Hold on to your wallet" is my mantra when dealing with Americans in Mexico from now on.
Meanwhile back at the Marina, the local management seems to lack authority to make a final determination, so we will be waiting on the big guns in wherever they hang out to figure it out. We were asked to stay 6 more days and for certain it will be a done deal. Seems like a Mexican standoff, but who knows. Maybe they are hoping we will just leave, absolving them of responsibility, or the police will find our stuff and return it. We still have a little more to do, so we may keep playing a bit longer, and get a few more things off our boat improvement wish list. Sorry, I can't seem to upload pictures without a pc at this time, so use your imagination.


Tuesday, February 26, 2013

South to Manznilla, sorta

We checked out of the marina and made plans to head South. The ATM was broken in La Paz, so we were short on pesos, but hey, atms are everywhere. Had a nice sail to Punta de Mita and a rolly night at anchor, the surf was just rolling in at a bad angle relative to the boat as dictated by wind direction... Decided to go to Islas Tres Marietas to check out the snorkeling and bird watching. Lots of whales as usual, but the anchorage at the park had mooring buoys and we thought they were too close together for us to fees safe leaving the boat unattended. So off we went to Caleta Ipala, a few miles down the coast. Had good wind and pulled in at about 6 pm. to find things arranged differently than we expected from the guide books. As we circled a fish pen looking for a spot to anchor, a fisherman sitting in a panga wearing a wet suit and flippers motioned us toward a spot near shore. As we came about even with his boat, he pointed down indicating the proper spot. It looked good to me, so we dropped anchor and had a nice peaceful night.




The surf was pretty rough on the beach, so we decided to forego the shore and go to the next anchorage, which was at Bahia Chamela. Another good day sailing, with following winds it took about 6 hours to make the 50 miles down the coast. We had moderately smooth anchorage there, and were able to go ashore by dinghy and practice our surf landing. Handling a dinghy in surf is all about timing. The waves come in sets with much smaller waves in between the big ones. You just wait for the last big wave and ride in right after the last one, then drag the dinghy up on the beach before any more big ones show up. Not really as easy as it seems, but definitely possible. One of the first ones earned me a big bonk on the shin when the dinghy tried to go back out with me standing behind it trying to push it  up on the beach. I'll be pulling it from now on.  The town was too small to have a bank or ATM, but we were able to eat a good meal at a beach side restaurant. The next day 10 or 12 shrimp boats came in  and anchored nearby. They stayed a couple of days, probably because of the norther that was coming. good time to head south before we got pinned in here for a few days waiting out the norther.


We set out for points south, but were uncomfortable with the nearby anchorages due to the impending north winds and accompanying rough seas.
This let us in for a long day sail to Bahia Tenacatita. A pretty nice spot with lots of boats just hanging out at the anchorage and going ashore for volley ball and boccie ball games in the afternoons.We had read about a dinghy trip through the mangroves to a beach near the point, so we headed on out the next morning. It was a long ride to a dock with a locked gate, but a large hole in the fence next to it. We went through the hole and came upon an armed state policeman, so we asked if it was ok to be there. He told us to go on to the beach, so we had a nice walk up to the end of the beach where we were greeted by another police man who told us we could go to jail for trespassing. We weren't sure where we had trespassed, but the locked gate was obviously part of the deal. We volunteered to head on back to avoid any problems, and headed back down the beach. As we got to the place with the gate, we crossed over to the dock for the dinghy. I looked up and the police were headed our way in their truck, so we hopped in the dinghy and headed back for the boat. It appears that the entire settlement of Bahia Tentacacita was on private property and the original owner had reclaimed the land with the aid of the government. They bulldozed the restaurants and houses on the land and put a gate and fence up to keep people out. The beaches in Mexico are public property, but the strip of land next to this one was private.
We went to the town of La Manznilla on the east end of the bay the next day with the big boat. A pretty quiet little tourist town with good enough shopping, but no bank presence. We were told that a bus runs down to Melaque every couple of hours and that was where the nearest bank could be found. We had a few dollars and found a store that would take them, and bought some fresh food. We spent another night in Tentacacita, and sailed down to Cuastecomate the next day. It was one more place with excellent snorkeling according to the guide books. Nice quiet anchorage with some beach side restaurants and a hotel, but nothing else.



 We decided to trek into Melaque the next day as it was only a couple of miles down the road. I took the bike and Joan went afoot. The road went up about 600 feet before it went down to Melaque, so the bike was useless for about half the trip, but handy for the other side. Joan caught up to me waiting in line for the ATM at the local bank. After about 45 minutes in line, it turned out that he machine didn't like my card. In fact it didn't like very many other peoples cards either. I went into the bank to see if I could get a cash advance on a credit card or some help. They only do cash advances on cards issued by the owning bank, but the helpful employee came out to the machine to swipe my card a few times in case I lacked proper technique. One of the people in line told me that one of their friends card wouldn't work in this machine, but worked in the one in Barre de Navidad. Its only a couple of miles by bicycle, so off I went. Unfortunately the machine was out of cash, so this was not going to happen today. I got in a cab with the bike in the trunk and rode back up to Cuastecomate. It looked like I would have to go up to Cihuatlin to get a real bank. I heard that there was an ATM at the hotel with the marina that usually worked, so we decided that would probably be the next try. We sailed around the corner from Cuastecomate to Melaque and anchored there for the night. When we went into town, the bank liked my card, and we were once again allowed to stimulate the local economy.

We stayed there a couple of nights and then moved into the lagoon at Barre de Navidad. This was a fabled protected anchorage where there would be no swell bouncing us at night. It was free from ocean swell, but the local fishermen showed up at about 3 am casting for bait among the anchored boats. Bright lights, lots of conversation, and nets and boats banging around. The anchorage was pretty convenient, with water taxis to take you to town, but it was also sheltered from the wind, making it hotter than out by the ocean. On calm nights no-seeums and mosquitoes showed up, so it generally did not suit our needs. The best shopping was up in Melaque, a cheap bus ride away, but you have to walk about 9 blocks to get to the bus station. It was ok to take a taxi back with the goods and get dropped off at the water taxi dock, but my Achilles tendons were getting very sore and every long walk made them worse. I was trying to negotiate a rate to stay in the marina, but it took quite a while to settle on something I could stand. The original shore term rate was about $2.70/ft per day or about $3k per month. They realized that the empty marina wasn't making them any money and lowered the rate by about 3/4, but still would have been $900/month to leave the boat there. After about 10 days of back and forth, we got in for 2 months for about the regular cost for one month.

In the interim, we went down to Bahia Santiago, near Mazatlan and checked that out for a few days, and returned to Tentacacita for a few more days. When we went into the marina, we could go swim in the pools, ride the waterslides, and have hot showers. I bought a fan to put in the hatch at night to cool things down and keep the bugs away. A side benefit was that the fan drowned out all the outside noise and provided a peaceful night. We got Bob a rabies shot and health certificate so that he could accompany us to Tampa, where my son was getting married March 3. Won't be much more boat stories till we return at the end of March and resume our wandering. Current plan is to head down to El Salvador and then maybe Costa Rica and Ecuador, but who knows what the future may hold.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Mainland Bound



We dropped down to La Paz for a few days to provision and get a little more organized. We had a couple of boisterous windy days running down wind, recording a max of 17.6 knots on one leg. We made it to La Paz in pretty much record time.
We lost a couple of batteries to old age or abuse while in Puerto Escondido, and La Paz is definitely the place to get new ones. I just removed the batteries which came with the boat, as they were not holding a charge and were dragging the new batteries we installed in CA. down the tubes. The dedicated starting battery was not starting the engine consistently, so I bought a new high end Optima battery to replace that one and removed the other two house batteries that came with the boat. Net result was about 120 Lbs. of lead out of the bilge with no loss of capacity.   We headed out of La Paz on December 22 to go anchor on Esperito Santu island for a night and then down to Ensenada de los Muertos for the launch off to the mainland. It was pretty windy going down to Muertos and we waited 2 nights there for the norther to run its course. We got a weather  grib file over the ham radio and it looked like Christmas day would be perfect with winds easing slightly over the next day. We set out in about 20 knots ripping along at about 10-12. As is usually the way this works, the winds built slightly all day and we had a rough night with 25+ knot winds all night. We had to reduce sail and slow the boat so that off watch could get some sleep. The area we were crossing is the convergence of the Gulf of California with the Pacific Ocean, complicated by the tides from the gulf interacting with the Ocean, along with three days worth of windblown seas. All in all a pretty rough nightr, but we were anchored at Mazatlan by mid day.
We anchored outside the harbor by isla de los chivos(goat island) and went ashore to Benjis Pizzeria for a garlic shrimp pizza and sonme beers. Yummy. Next day we went into Mazatlan to explore and to have a shower at the Club Nautico. For a small fee, you can dock your dinghy securely, take a shower, dump your trash and get a bus into town. The place had definitely seen better days, but we were in need and they were available. We found the main market and historic district, and came back to the boat and the pizza place for dinner. Next day we went into town to provision for a bit more roaming. The central market is a typical mexican market with everything from socks to fresh tripe. All the fresh produce, groceries, meat and fish and everything else in one location with 50 vendors set up in one place. Got loaded up and set out mid day for Isla Isabel. A famous bird santuary in a somewhat remote area off the coast.


Got some really good looks at some whales toward evening, but the always seem to be underwater when the shutter clicks.
We pulled into the anchorage early morning and dropped anchor next to a couple of boats we had been next to in La Paz  a week earlier.Lots of whales near the island in the morning. We identified Blue, Humpbacked and Pilot whales from the anchorage.We snorkeled some, but not too impressive as the water was kind of cloudy from the windy day.Next day we snorkeled the other side of the island and I scribbed the scum off the bottom of the boat. A rather amazing amount of slime builds up in couple of months. Winds pick up from a more notherly direction, giving us a rolly lumpy night close to a rocky shore. We would have left in the night, but a couple of other boats had come in and anchore rather close to us and we didn't want to have to worry about hitting them in the dark. First thing in the morning we hoist anchor and head for San Blas for a night in a little more sheltered spot. We had a great sail, mostly running before the wind at aobut 9-10 knots and as the wind slowed and shifted, we had fast reaching at about the same speed but with nearly no rough seas. The boat next to us hoisted sail right after we did, but they vnaished in the distance pretty quickly. We went ashore to a beach side restaurant and had garlic shrimps for dinner. The bay is very shallow and gradual sloped, so that if you were to leave your dinghy, the tide could leave it a few hundred feet from the water. Not much fun to drag it back to the water, so we kept a close eye on it. It started to rain when we went back to the boat and as we got on board and out the dinghy up, the other boat from isla isabel showed up and anchored right next to us. This in a by which is 3 miles wide with only us and one other boat in it.
Next morning it is still raining and the wind has shifted to the south, so we decided to just head south, make some wather and try to find a nice place to hang out. We were going to Chacaly, but with the southerly winds, we were concerned about another rough night. We continued on to Rincon de Guayabitos to take advantage of the southerly wind keeping the sell down in this otherwise bit surf spot. We went ashore in the dighy to find a pretty busy mexican tourist resort with few Americans. It was pleasant and we decicded to stay as long as the weather would allow us smooth anchorage.
As usual that lasted till about 2 in the morning, when a 3 foot swell started to bounce us thoroughly.
Off to next shelter from the northwest swells of the pacific. We caught a nice tuna and some cero(spanish mackerel), but just kept the tuna. Punta de Mita appeared in the distance and we anchored off the town front. Pretty busy holiday activity, lots of tourists, many north Americasn. Lots of people surfing or paddle boarding. The swell which rolls around the point providing surf, also gives us a rocking motion on the boat. Not so bad sitting or sleeping, but hard to cook or make coffee.

 The second day here, I rented a paddle board and playhed in the surf. The board was a bit small for me,and I couldn't get much of the stand up thing going, but I go several good rides in a kneeling. position. Witn a larger board and a little practice, this could be fun. I never could see why people wanted to just paddel around on one, but the surf changes everything. I am not nimnble enough to start on my belly on a surfboard and hot up with a wave, but if you are already up, its pretty sweet.
Next morning I was too sore to think about a repeat performance, so we moved on to La Cruz del la Huantaxcle. We anchored out in front of the marina, but had another kind of bouncy night. We decided it was time to go into someplace quiet and get some rest and a hot shower.

The marina had a slip available to fit Hot Sauce, so that was  a treat, they usually charge about 50% premium, for us taking up too much space. We looked at the marina plan and it state that the slips were 10m wide or 33 feet, so 28 wide Hot Sauce would be a breeze. We tooled in to the marina, and as I neared the slip, I could see the attendant looking kind of apprehensive. As we got closer, it became obvious that the 10m was center to center not one side to the other. meaning that thbe slip is about 30 feet wide. I slipped right in and he shouted 'Perfecto". What fun, the slip is about 90 feet long and could hold anther Hot Sauce easily behind us. We talked to other people in he marina and they seemed amazed that we made it to Mazatlan in 30 hours, most of them spent 2 or 3 nights out, proof positive that fast is fun.

Some cat tried to come on the boat in the wee hours of the morning, and Bob had a hissy fit. Pretty funny except for being awakened at 4 am.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Checking out the Baja

Headed out of La Paz for a bit of sight seeing. Had a nice sail from La Paz to Bahia Glorieta, where we spent the night. 14 boats in anchorage, but it is large and un crowded. A south wind came up late and bounced us soundly for most of the night.
Up early and off to Bahia Grande for a little shelter from the south winds.5 boats in anchorage.  Did some snorkeling, not very clear, but some fish to look at. Good to get off the boat and get a bit of exercise, along with a bath. We fill the sun shower and when we get done with the snork, we wash off and rinse with hot fresh water. Gotta love that  watermaker. Wind came up from the west in the night, so another bouncy night.
Up early for Puerto Evaristo. Sailed most of the way in southerly winds. Wind died about an hour out, so we threw out a line and hooked a nice dorado.


 What a treat to catch and a better treat to eat. They always jump and this one did it a dozen times or so. Got to Evaristo early, but too cloudy to snorkel.6 boats in achorage.  Nice ilttle place with a restaurant on the beach and a peaceful anchorage for a good nights sleep. We inquired about a local store, but the road was washed out in a storm last summer and the vegetable truck hasn't been by in the last week, so no produce. Cloudy in the morning so off we go to Puerto Los Gatos. Get there early, snorkel for a bit, and a quiet evening by ourselves for the first time on the trip. One more beautiful spot, with stunning desert scenery all about.
Next morning we headed up toBahia Agua Verde for the best snorkeling yet, even if it did cloud up early. We explored the town, but being sunday evening, all was closed but the churches. Little to be had if it was open, as there was no electricity in evidence, so probably no refrigeration.. We still had yummy dorado made in a rice stew, so no hardship.
Off to Puerto Escondido in the morning to get situated before the forecast Norther came along. No luck there, windy in our face from the start building through the day. Got in about 3 pm after a long day pounding into the wind at about 4 knots. The 2 day blow ran out in the middle of the night, Weather forecasting must be harder than it looks. We wanted to investigate leaving the boat in Puerto Escondido and flying back to Tampa for a week be Xmas, but it is nearly impossible from here without hiring a plane or some such. Caught a ride up to Loreto, did a little sight seeing and shopping. The most expensive store we have been to with lots of american products, must be living off the tourists. Taxi wanted $35 to drive us the 14 miles back to Puerto Escondido, so we hitchiked. After hitching for about an hour with no luck( a couple of offers to take us out in the wasteland and leave us stranded), a bus came by and brought us down for aoabut $8.
Have been here for a couple of days, and will head out to the islands for a couple of days tomorrow.
We  have decided to head over to the mainland from here, but will probably go down to La Paz to provision for the crossing.The stores are much better there than here. We also want to add a bit more shade to the back of the boat before we take off, so La Paz is the place to get that handled. The crossing is a big deal to the local cruisers, but only about 180 miles from the jumping point west of La Paz. It's pretty much impossible for us to plan an arrival because sometimes we go 12 knots and sometimes 5 depending on the wind and seas. Makes it hard to know what time to leave, as you want to arrive with good light from behind when going into somewhere new. We are jsut blowing in the wind, but it's all good.

Sunday, December 2, 2012

Boppin Down the Baja

It has been nearly impossible to get online lately.  That and other appropriate excuses to be invented later will explain our lack of updates.
We left San Diego mid day to go to the Coronado Islands in  Mexico for the night. Had good winds broad reaching at about 9 knots with following seas. Got to the islands at about 4, but the wind was more notherly than normal and the anchorage was rolly. We loolked about for a better spot and found none. The islands are surrounded with big metal pens which are used to fatten up the yellowfin tuna that will be shipped to Japan when ripe enough. We didn't feel adventurous enouhg to anchor near them and the attendant boats, so we headed on down to Ensenada. Had good winds and could have gotten there at about midnight or so, but didn't want to go into an unfamiliar port at night. Spent the night with just a tiny bit of sail up trying to keep the boat speed down to about 4 knots and arrive at dawn. What an irony, first day of sailing and we have to try to go slow all night.
\Go to Ensenada early morning to find that they do not allow anchoring in the harbor any more. The cruising guides age quickly around here. .We went into the first marina and got ready to check in to Mexico. The marina made copies of all the relevant documents and made me go to buy Mexican Liability insurance. Required if you want to import your boat. Messed around and got to the official office building around 1. The process was a little tedious, but really just stand in this line, go pay the fee in that line, come back to this line, take this paper to that line, get a new paper, go pay over there, come back and so forth for about an hour or so. Did it all with only the help of the marina to give us the right number of copies to satisfy the beaurocrats. We had been told that to import the boat, would be an onerous task and would require an agent, but it just happened in the shuffle, with no special effort on our part. If you do not import the boat, you dannot leave it unattended in Mexico, so we can now keep it here for 10 years and come and go as we like.
Because of the width of Hot Sauce, we got charged for two slips, with a typical "'Lo siento senor", but for you a $10 discount, so $50 for the night.
Joan went to Walmart to provision, and we left mid day for the Islas De Todo Santos, where we tied up to a floating barrel instead of anchoring by the fish pens. A couple of guys came out in a work boat and told us that the one we had chosen was not safe, so they guided us to one that was well anchored and out in the ocean swell. The swell was to become our friend after all the time since Washington, but not really, it was just a PITA. Kind of like an endless series of large boat wakes bashing you 24/7.
Headed down the coast to Bahia Colnett next day in cloudy, slightly rainy weather. Motored all day with light following winds. Got there about 21:30, used the radar and gps to get to the right spot.
Up early motoring to Isla San Martin.  Wind was still too notherly to make the anchorage on the west side comfortable, and the south side was pretty socked in with kelp so we continued to Bahia San Quintin. Had to make a few minor repairs, as a couple of bolts holding the main sheet traveller track had sheared off while flying the spinaker. Joan successfully checked into a ham net in the morning. Some of the equipment on the boat generates considerable interference. Turning off the inverter and the refridgerator seemed to fix the problem. When she transmits on the radio, the knot meter loses its mind and records speeds of as much as 46 knots. Zoom (virtually), but makes it harder to record average speeds at the end of the day. Most of the passages so far have winds at about 10 knots directly astern, which allows us to go about 5 knots, but at that speed the wind over the decks is about 5 knots and it does not fill the sails well enough to stabilize the boat. The swell leave us popping and jerking the sails with the main trying to jibe every few minutes. We tie it off to the side, but it is just much more compfortalbe to motor, with the exception of smelling the exhaust wafting over the boat the whole time. It's easier to fish when motoring, on the bright side.


Motored down to Punta Baja. We were able to sail smartly a couple of times, but only an hour or two before the wind went back to 8-9 knots. Very rolly anchorage as the swells roll around the point and break on the beach beside us. Up early and on the way to do an overnighter to a quieter anchorage.
Head out for Isla Cedros with good wind 15-20, running before the wind with just the genoa up at 10-12 knots, surfed at 17 once or twice. As evening came up we were seeing 25-30 knots, so rolled most of the genny in to slow the boat enough to allow off watch to sleep. At higher speeds, you tend to dive off the top of some of the waves, which gives a sense of weightlessness or falling to the off watch. Arrived at Cedros at dawn with wind about gone. Tried to start the engine but got only click click click. decided to try the outboard for a bit, but the swells lifted the prop out of the water every few minutes and it was a poor substitute for an inboard diesel.Had a look and found that there was a layer of nice fluffy white salt on the starter from an exhaust cooling water leak. The leak turned out to be just a loose clamp. Engine oil was low and some spilled about the bilge, but I added oil and all looked ok. Washing all the salt off fixed the electrical issue and the engine started. Motored down to Bahia Tortuga (Turtle Bay) and anchored. Before I could get the anchor off the boat, a panga approaced to see if we needed fuel or other services. After I got the anchor set, I arranged for him to bring me some fuel. We went into town, kind of a funky place where the fellow with the panga services runs the dock and has someone excort us to a wonderful(his term) store, and points out the best restaurant. Surprise, Enrique's family owns all these businesses.  There is a little more town further up, but it takes an effort to shake the guide and just wander around. Kind of a grubby town, fallen on hard times after the cannery shut down on the waterfront. Outboard won't start, probably bad gas, got new gas, but still no start. Will wait to get somehere more permanent to mess with it. Rowing ashore or paying  a buck a head each way to Enrique is a deterent to getting to town, so it is about time to wander on.
After a couple of nights rest, we continue down the coast, leaving at mid day when the wind picks up on the day before Turkey day. Nice wind lets us sail at 10 or so for 4 or 5 hours, thinking we'll be at Mag bay at dawn. Of course when the wind dies down, we are motoring at 5 or so all night and only get half as far as we hoped by dawn. wind comes up for a few hours of sailing, then back to motoring at about noon. Caught a nice yellow fin tuna  about 6#, yummy. would have kept more of it if we had known it would be the only one. Saw a bunch of whales, dolphins and assorted wildlife on the way, catching little tuny by the score, finally give up on the fishing as we have more of them than we care to eat. Mostly they are a treat for Bob.
Go into Bahia Santa Maria, just above Bahia Magdalena to anchor and catch up on sleep. Quiet night at anchor, pretty spot, not much else happening.
Head out for one last overnighter to Cabo early in the morning. Fogged in, so we wait for clearing to get past the lobster floats at the entrance. Uneventful long motoring day and night and day again. Hooked a nice dorado in the evening, but after Joan and I both fought with it till our arms cramped, it managed to break the line on the rudder when i tried to gaff it. Looked to be 4 feet long and about 30+ lbs.  Lots of unrealised yummy there.
Cruise into Cabo San Lucas just after sunset to a flurry of booze cruisers with DJs and karaoke machines going strong in the harbor. We get anchored by the beach to the tune of a couple of live bands and some team building rah rah on the shore. Loud, but we were sleepy.

 
Bob tries to catch a bug off the light.
Up and out early as slips are expensive and the mood here is mostly "Step right this way, have I got a deal for joo". We motor to San Jose del Cabos, a new resort marina and stop for fuel and a night at the dock. Well, we thought that was what we would do, but after finding out they wanted 112$us for a slip with no electricity, Internet or shower access, we decided to head on down the road. Wind was up, so we sailed at 10-12 knots into the wind for a few hours. Trouble with sailing into the wind is that you may go fast across the wind but you never make much time into the wind. We were making about 3 knots to windward, so back to the iron genny(motoring). Got into Bahia Los Frailes at about 8:30 at night and used the full moon and radar to position ourselves for a comfortable night.
Up and off for Ensenada de Los Muertes in the morning, more sailing, to the same effect, I get 15 miles out to sea and the wind shifts to the West by about 25 degrees making it impossible to get to windward in a timely fashion. Arrive at about 21:30 with 9 boats in the anchorage(popular spot). Nice enough place scenic, but with a tent city of fishermen and campers on the shore. Must have been 200 people camped out and 50 trailers at the boat ramp next door.
Bob dukes it out with a biscuit.
We motor up to Caleta Lobos next day arriving around 3:30 for some swimming and lounging about.
Swells come in all night through a gap between the island and the land, so a bumpy night.
Down to La Paz in the morning, anchoring out in front of Hotel de los Arcos(vacant but a good landmark). We dinghy into the dock in front of the hotel and walk about some, finding a good seafood restaurant and a grocery store. We were out of milk, eggs, and most perishables, so it was time to shop. Next morning, we tuned into the cruisers net on VHF and hooked up with the local outboard guru. He kept the motor overnight did a carb overhaul, complete service, with new grease on all fittings, and changed the lower oil for $100.
The anchorage we are in is swept by strong tides and cross winds, so all the boats are in motion. We get pretty close to another boat in the morning and decide to move a little ways, but to the same results next morning. everyone has what they deem to be the right amount of anchor line or chain out and swings as far as that allows with the wind and tides. We are unaccustomed to this close space and may not ever like it. When we go into the dock today,
We head into the Marina de la Paz for a couple of nights to do laundry, have real showers, wash the salt off the boat, clean the water tanks, and provision. I misjudged the cross current and got sucked onto a dock coming in, knocked some paint and filler off the port ama. Within an hour of getting tied up, a local entrepreneur is trolling the dock for work. We agree on a price and he is sanding and repairing the bobo within the hour. Seems to know his stuff pretty well, hope it comes out well. The construction of this boat is cosmetically fragile, but easily repaired. Glad to have someone take a task off the list instead of adding to it.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Down the Road,,uhh, Coast We Go


Got started bright and early on Friday, Oct. 26, for a run down the coast, final destination San Diego for this leg.


Made it to Pillar Point harbor at Half Moon Bay on the first day. some decent sailing, after very light winds out the Golden Gate. Motored most of the way past San Francisco before we could sail. Auto pilot not working correctly, compass goes crazy when we try to go any where but southerly direction.
Decided to move the compass to a location further from the new water maker pump to try to eliminate interference. We Got lucky this time and it cleared up the issues, but in the analysis of this, we discovered that most of our "stainless" cutlery is magnetic and influences the flux of the flux gate compass. You can put a knife next to the compass and it throws the reading off by 30 degrees.
Had a very quiet night anchored inside the breakwaters of this secure harbor.
Sailed down the coast in good winds making about 10 knots most of the day, but had a new issue with the autopilot. The Drive arm connecting the ram to the tiller comes unscrewed and stops being connected every couple of hours. We headed into Santa Cruz to anchor for the night. Surf coming around the point makes for a bit of a rolly anchorage.
Sailed down the coast to Pebble Beach next to Carmel, and anchored in a small kelp filled cove off the golf course. Lots of birds and otters here. Heavy fog showed up mid afternoon. Rolly anchorage as the surf rolled around the point and bounced us about.
Fogged in early, but as the morning wore on, it started to break up. We headed out early for a long sail to anchor in San Simeon on the other end of Big Sur. Got back into fairly heavy fog after a few hours and the radar began to earn its keep. Got to sail some, but wind shifted to directly behind us and dropped to below 10 knots. not enough to steady the boat in some pretty lumpy seas. We motored with sail up for the next 12 hours or so, and reached San Simeon too early to enter, so we continued to San Luis Obispo. As we entered the harbor, we decided that we could just go the rest of the day and we could round Point Conception before dark.
We also got a look at the secret rocket launch site above the point. No mention on the charts, but there it is.

Since this point marks the end of northern California and the entry to warm, southern waters, we rounded the point an hour before sunset and anchored at Cojo anchorage just to the east of this major milestone. Pretty nice night, windy and cold, but not too bouncy.
Got up early next day and motored to Santa Barbara for a quiet night tied to a dock in a marina. Hot showers, a nice restaurant meal and all is well.
Decided to go out to the anchorage outside ht harbor for the next night as most of our land side duties were complete by mid day and we wanted an early start for warmer climates the next day. Lots of boat out there but not many were occupied. We discovered why later at night when the swells bounced us all night long.
Headed out for Channel Island Harbor the next morning early. Uneventful trip, motoring all the way. Boats were coming out and putting up sail as we entered the harbor, but wind was only about 10 knots. This was the pattern for the rest of the trip, whenever we got near the destination, an evening breeze came up that we could have sailed in for a couple of hours.
Next morning we headed out for Santa Barbara Island just west of Catalina Island. It was a full days motoring and motor sailing till we anchored just before sunset. It was pretty windy, but quiet enough to get to sleep easily. Several times in the night big waves just about bounced us out of bed. I think it was ships passing in the Santa Barbara ship channel, but who knows. We were eager to leave in the morning, so we headed out for San Diego.
Arrived at the entry to San Diego bay at about 4 am on Monday. Got to the area of the marina, found a vacant end tie and moored for a nap till business hours. Found out we were at the wrong marina, and got re-directed to the correct dock. We go stuffed in front of a derelict catamaran with a great garden of sea life rotting at its water line. It reeked, and we were at the corner by the entry to a huge harbor and lots of boats bounced us about all day long. San Diego is the noisiest place er have ever seen. Between the airport next door and the Navy helicopters and fighter jet s flying all around it is quite disturbing. We decided to move to another marina billing itself as the newest in San Diego. It was so new that they hadn't built the dockside facilities. So no bathrooms or showers or parking or any of the normal amenities existed. It was much closer to all the businesses we would need to interact with.
Tomorrow we will be moving to the harbor police dock, which has the same rate, but also has showers, and other human necessities. We are waiting to see how an Alaskan cold front will play out before we move on to Mexico. We will probably leave on Sunday or Monday after the weather settles down.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Time for a Change of Scenery


Too long in the city, time to head on out. We have spent lots of time putting in and testing new systems and getting all the details ironed out. Lately, we have been waiting for a likely window of good weather, so as to not repeat the thrashing we got off the Oregon coast.

It looks like the perfect time to head out was today at midday, but as usual, we had a few more little details to finsh up. Tomorrow for sure, we will be heading out the gate and making a left for warmer climes.  There are quite a few harbors to hide in if it is not to our liking, and there are no forseen weather warnings for the next week, so wish us luck.


Got a new sail cover with lazy jacks to help handle the main sail. the lines from the sail cover to the mast keep the sail above the boom, and  the sail cover zips open down the top edge so the sail goes into the cover when released, better than sliced bread, imo.


The old tiller and extension(steering stick). pretty industrial and not so easy to use.

New tiller, fancy adjustable extension, yer to be photographed. The old one was twist lock like a shower curtain rod, and tended to self adjust at inappropriate times. The new one locks in place with a button, and is much more ergonomic to the touch.


A little air time installing radar. Spent aobut 3 hours up the mast drilling, fitting and wiring. Should make the trip down the coast fog free.

Also procured and installed a water maker. They were on sale and we had personal obligations in the bay area. Quite a project finding litlle niches for all the components and getting it all connected. We will probably try it out tomorrow on the way down the coast. It is important to only run a watermaker in clean seawater, so we don't want to risk it in the bay.